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(No Model.) 5 sheets-sheet 1.

E. J, LINCK.

CHART FOR DRAWING GARMENTS.

N0. 252,388. Patented Jan.17.1882.

'Fignl l /L M' WM ATTORNEY.

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(No Model.)

5 Sheets-Sheet 2.

E. J. LINCK.

CHART FOR DRAPTING GRMENTS.

Patented Jan, 17,1882.

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A'TTORN EY.

5 Sheets-Sheet 3.

(No Model.)l

E; J. L INCK. CHART EUR vDRAIFTING 'GARMBNTS- INVENTOR Sheet C WITNESSES.

ATTORN EY.

(No Model.) 5 Sheets-Sheet 4.

E. J. LINCK.

CHART PoR DRAFTING GARMENTS.

No. 252,388. Patented Jan. 17,1882.

WITNESSES. INVENTOR ATTORNEY.

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CHART FOR DRAFTING GARMENTS. No. 252,388. Patented Jan. 17,1882.

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UNITED STATES PATENT OFFICE.

'EMIL J. LINCK, 0E BALTIMORE, MARYLAND, y

,CHART FoeA DRAFTING eARMENTs.

SPECIFICATION forming part of Letters 'ylatent No. 252,388, dated January' 17, 1882.

Application filed September 6, 1881. (No model.)

.To all whom it may concern: i

Be it known that I, EMIL J. LiNoK, of Baltimore city, State of Maryland, have invented certain new and useful Improvements in Pattern-Charts for Drafting Garments; and I hereby declare the same to be fully, clearly, and exactly described `as follows,reference being had to the accompanying drawings.

The object ot my invention is 'to furnish a chart or measure whereby the articles ot' gentlemens wear-viz., coat, pants, and "estmay be drafted and cut. i In the accompanying drawings, Figure 1, comprising'Sheets A, B, and C, represents the scale or measure, which is one yard long and about two 'and -a half inches wide. It is made either of strong Manila `paperorot wood or metal, and bears on both" sides arbitrary scales. The location and extent of these can'best be described bystating that the drawings are correctrepresentations of' the measure, of t'ull size. The photolithographic reduction will be readily determined upon comparing the inchmeasure on Fig. 1 with a standard measure. The sections of the scale shown in Fig. 1 are supposed to be joined,4 the end a. to c', `b to b, c to c', &c. nre i`n the fifth column constitute one side of the scale and bear the measurements for the coat.' The other four parts are thel other side of the scale,and bear' the measurements for the pants from one end and for thc rest from the other.

I will proceed-now to describe the method of using the measure or stick in the form of directions for drafting the charts for ltruck-coat, sack-coat, or cnt-away, For pants, and for vest.

A, the yfrock-coat. (See Fig. 2.) This drawing is made to one-sixth full size for a breastmeasure ot' thirty-six inches, referred to the inch-measure of Fig. l.. Draw a straight line from 1 to 2 the desired length oi waist and produce it to 3 the desired length of skirt. t Lay olf from 1 the points A,B, (l, D, E, V, and F by taking the distances from the topot' the. slick to the appropriate number under the scales so lettered, the number in this case be ing. Layout lilies at right angles to the line 1 to 2 from the points A B, Ste., and lay ol'A to G equal thirty-six measure under scale G. i Apply the rulestick on the line from V The parts bearing the inch-meas-` and lay olf H I K L M N O in the saine way. From K, M, and N lay oft' lines parallel to 1 to 2 unt-il they meet the line from the point A. From G draw G to l1 through theintersection of lines from B and K and lay oti'on a line from E beyond its intersection with K one-fourth inch. Apply the rulestick on line F and lay otf IJ Q It as aboye, and lay off also the same ,distances on the line 2. Make 4 to 5 equal 4 to 6. Drawl L to R parallel to 1 to 2 and curve from the same one-half inch for the side seam, as shown. Draw aline parallel to 4 M to K one-halt' inch below it and lay oft' M to U and U to 7 the required distance under the scale U. Mark 9 midway between K'and V, and, with-9 to O as aradius,sweep out O to 13 for the breast-line. WithN to 8 as4 radius sweep out 8 to 12 for the shoulder. to S the required size' under the scale S and make 10 to l1 equal S to 12. Lay off13 to T under scale T for depth of neclehole. Draw O 130,14 and make 14 to Uequal 'I to U. The lap outside the breastlline will be determined by fashion.` .Curve the. line for the arm-hole through points 12 to 7 to M and 4, as shown,r

making it. tangent to the line below M to K. For the skirt,vlay out 1 to U and l to W and WV to X the desired size under those scales, making U to 6 equal to the skirt-seam ot' the body. For a frock-o'vercoatl make the measurements two sizes larger, setting the breast-line and edge of skirt one-halt' inch farther out.

B, the vest, Fig. 3. This gure is drawn toene-sixth full size, referred to scale ot' Fig. 1, on a breast-measure of thirty-six and waistmeasure of thirty-two. Lay oit on line 1 to 2 points A V B (l D from the scales so lettered on the vest-measure sideof the stick, and make D to 2 equal three inches. 'Draw lineshfrom A, V, B, C, D,f'and 2 at right angles to 1 to 2, and make A to O equal required distance under scale ot O; also, lay oft' on line from G the points E F G X H J from the appropriate scales having correspondingl letters. Draw front-E, G, and H vertical lines until 4they meet the line from V5 also, draw X to 3 and lay oft' 4 to K the indicated measure. under scale K. From 1l, midway between E and C, with 11 to J as a radius, draw curve to line from V, and from H, with H to 4 as radius, draw the-curve 4 to 10. Make 4 to L the meas- K to equal 9 to 5 plus one-fourth inch.

VrDraw 13 to 12 one-half inch below Gto E, and

lay off 12 to 6 and 12 to 7 the indicated distance under scale I. Draw 6 to 7 and-12 to 8 2 Lay oft' 13 to O and O to 14 from scale O, (upper gures,) and lay o ff 3 to N from the scale of N on the waist-measure,

nin., this instance assumed to bethirty-two, and

SQ tance plus one inch for seams.

. making N to M equal to the required distance make N to equal waist-measure divided by four, and lay oft' from D, 16 to D the saine dis- Draw J toM,

from scale M. Connect F with 15 and 16, and

M with 1S, and curve the bottom and seams as shown.

C, the sack-coat. The drawing Fig. 4 is one-sixth full size, referred to scale of Fig. l, breast-measure thirty-six inches. Lay oit' from 1 the distances A B C D E V F from the scale so lettered, and make A to 2 the required lengthof the coat. Lay off A to G, and from V the distances H, I, K, M, N, and O. From K, M, and N draw vertical lines to the horizontal line from A. From G draw line G to 12 through the intersection of lines from B and K, and produce it until it cuts the line from C. Lay od' on linefrom E one fourth inch beyond its intersection with line from K, and make K to U the required distance under scale ot' U, laying off on lin'e U three-fourths inch. Make F to 3 equal breast-measure divided by six, and lay oft' samedistance A to 4 and 2 to 5.

'Make 3 to 7 equal H to I, and 3 to 6 equal 21g-If, and draw 4 to 8 from 4 through 6. Curve the side body and back as shown. Draw line one-half inch below and parallel to M to K, and make 10'to S the required distance under scale ofS, M to U and U to 14 under scale of U. lBisect V to K, and mark the point 15, and, with 15 to O as radius, draw the breastline. Make 16 toT the indicated length under scale'ot' T, and draw curve l() to 13 with Nto 10 as radius from N. Make S to 13 equal 12 to 11. Draft the arm-hole as described for flock-coat. For sack-overcoat draft twov sizes larger, drawing breast-line one-half linch farther out.

D, the sleeve, Fig. 5. Makel to Z required size under scale of Z, and make 1 to 2 and Z to 3 one-halfwidth of arm-hole, (ordinarily onefourth of breast-measure.) Draw 2 to Z, and from center ot' this line draw right line to line Drawcircle from 4 tangent to,1 to 2, and from tangent-pointfdraw curve to 11, midwaybetween 2 and 6, and from S to a point. about one-fourth inch above Z. For the under part of the sleeve layoff 1 to T the required size under scale of T, and drawl T to 9, and, through 9, the curve l0 -to 9 to point above Z, as shown. The usual length of sleeve is, to elbow' onethird, and to wrist two-thirds,'(plus one-half inch,)'of breast-measure. Lay otf14 to 15 the width at wrist, and draw 12 to 15 from elbow to wrist, and 15 to 16 at right an'- gles to 12 to 15. Curve asv shown in dotted lines.

E,thepants,Fig.6. Thetigureisone-sixthfull size on the following measures: @,hip to knee, twenty-two; to bottom, forty two and onehalf; b, inseam, thirty-two; c, waist, thirtytwo; d, seat, thirty-eight; e, left thigh at the top,twentyfour gf, width at knee,twentyone; A g, width ot' bottom, twenty.

Draw 1 to 2 equal to difference between length of inner and outer seam-,in this case ten and one-half inches-L and at 2 draw a line at right angles to 1 to 2.

Lay off from 2 the measure @(here twentyfour inches) on the scale P, and mark A B C D E F G under the number 24 of those scales. Draw B to 3 and mark 4 midway between B and A. Draw 4 to 3 and 4 to C at right angies to 4to 3. Lay off 1 toOon scale O (lower Iigures) the indicated waistmeasure, thirtytwo, and make?) to O equal 3 to O. Draw O toD and C to 5 equal to C F, and connect F and 5, marking the middle point 6. Connect O with E, curving the part from 3 to E, and from a point one-fourth inch outside of O. draw a line parallel to O to 8, curving it to F, as shown, and curve from O to 18. From 7-a point one-third the distance ,from 3 to 4, measured from 4-lay oif to S the required size of seat-measure, taken from the lower gures onl scale O, and draw Sto G and 9 toD at rightV Draw 10 to S anddescribe arc 10 tol 1 from 1 as case thirty-eight-and lay off 3--19 the length of inseam, (tliirty-two,) and lay off 'K L on both sides from 12 for front part, and

12vto M forV hinderpart, of the leg, curving from M as may be desired. Lay off 3 to 13 the hip-measure, (twenty-two,) and from 14 to 15 and 16 to 17 the width at knee, (.twenty-one,) with the addition of one inch i'orseams. Measure distance in waist O O and 11 to I. Compare it with the required waist-measure, (thirtytw0,) add one inch for seams, and take out. the balance at 1 in a gore, as shown. The spring at bottom and curve from 1 to M are dictated by fashion'.

Having thus described m'yinyention and the manner of using the same, what I claim is- The chart herein described fordraiting coats, pantaloons, and vests, consisting of astrip ot' suitable material having imprinted thereon the marks and scales as shown in Fig. 1 of the drawings, adapted for use in laying off the appropriate measures for. cutting, substantially as and for the purpose set forth.

EMIL J. LINCK.

VWitnesses: I

It. D. WILLIAMS, W. A. BERTRAM.

IOO

center, and are 1 to 11 from C. Draw A to 12 IIO 

